파이버 레이저 절단 두께 차트: 파이버 레이저로 얼마나 두꺼운 것을 절단할 수 있나요?
Time : Aug 07, 2026 조회수: 233
When you look at a fiber laser cutting thickness chart, it looks very exact. The numbers seem perfect. But real-world cutting is not that neat or simple. You might ask how thick a fiber laser can cut. The laser power just gives you a basic idea. Other things matter too. The type of metal changes things. So does the assist gas. Focus, surface dirt, and edge quality also play a big part. Your daily work goals matter the most. A piece of metal might cut fine during a slow showroom test. But that same cut might fail during a long, busy workday. Please look at the ranges below as a handy guide. Then, always ask the seller for a timed test cut. Make sure they use your actual metal before you pick a machine.
How Thick Can a Fiber Laser Cut?
Let’s look at normal sheet metal. A 1kW cutter can usually cut about 6 to 10 mm mild steel. On the higher side, a big 12kW system can cut roughly 30 to 45 mm. But that is only if conditions are perfect. That range sounds very easy. However, things like stainless steel, aluminum, brass, and copper act differently. These metals usually need more power for the same thickness. Many little details change your final result. Gas pressure is one detail. Laser focus is another. The size of the nozzle, the metal grade, and the surface rust can also shift the outcome. Even the type of edge you want will change how thick you can go.
Start with the Metal, Not Just the Wattage
Mild steel is often cut using oxygen. This is because the chemical reaction adds extra heat. That extra heat helps the beam push through thicker plates. The bad news is you get a burned, rusty-looking edge. Nitrogen is different. People use nitrogen mostly for stainless steel and aluminum. They use it when they want a shiny, clean finish without any rust. Copper and brass are tricky metals. They reflect a lot of the laser’s energy back like a mirror. Because of this, they need a special cutting head. You also need settings that are tested on the exact alloy you have. What about a 60W fiber marking laser? That machine is in a totally different group. It mainly marks metal. Sometimes, it can cut super thin foil if you set it up right. But remember, it is not a machine for cutting thick metal plates.
Fiber Laser Cutting Thickness Chart by Power and Material
This chart shows good, safe ranges for buying a fiber laser cutting machine. It is not a strict promise for every job. If you see numbers near the top limit, be careful. Those top numbers usually mean you have to cut much slower. They also mean you need a very careful setup. You will have less room for mistakes like dirty metal or old machine parts.
|
전력 |
Mild Steel |
Stainless Steel |
Aluminum |
Brass / Copper |
|
1kW |
6-10 mm |
3-5 mm |
2-4 mm |
1-2 mm |
|
1.5kW |
10-14 mm |
4-6 mm |
3-5 mm |
2-3 mm |
|
2kW |
12-18 mm |
6-8 mm |
4-6 mm |
3-4 mm |
|
3kW |
16-25 mm |
8-12 mm |
6-10 mm |
4-6 mm |
|
6kW |
20-30 mm |
15-25 mm |
12-20 mm |
8-12 mm |
|
12kW |
30-45 mm |
25-40 mm |
20-30 mm |
12-20 mm |
Buying note: The biggest number you see is rarely a good number for everyday work. You really need extra power to keep your speed steady. You need it for cutting small holes and sharp corners. You also need a safety net when the sheet quality changes. Extra power helps you get a clean edge. That way, you do not have to grind the parts later.
A Specific 3000W Machine Example
A good way to see reality is to look at the WT-3015 specification sheet. This sheet shows a working space of 1550 x 3050 mm. It lists a guide range of 0.5 to 25 mm for carbon-steel. It also gives a 0.5 to 20 mm guide range for stainless-steel. That same paper shows a 100 m/min no-load speed. It mentions 1.2G acceleration. It also has a 1-tonne table weight limit, which means it holds heavy metal. Finally, it uses water cooling. These details belong to just one machine. They match one specific setup. They are not a promise for every 3000W laser in the world. Always treat the highest number as just a guide. Before you spend your money, ask for a real test cut. This test must prove it works on your specific metal grade. It should show the right gas, nozzle, lens state, speed, and edge finish.
Why Is Maximum Thickness Different from Production Thickness?
A test for the absolute maximum thickness answers one tiny question. It only asks: did the laser beam break the plate in two? But real shop work asks much harder questions. Can the machine do that cut over and over again? Can it do it at a fast speed? Are the slanted edges okay? Is the melted metal waste at the bottom acceptable? Are the heat marks and hole shapes good enough? Finally, is the cost per part cheap enough? A super slow cut might look amazing in a bright sales room. But on a dirty, busy factory floor, it might be a terrible choice for your business.
Assist Gas Changes the Result
Assist gas quietly changes two big things. It changes how thick you can cut. It also changes how much money you spend. Oxygen can help you cut thicker mild-steel. This happens because oxygen causes a fire-like reaction that adds more heat. Nitrogen stops the metal from rusting or burning. Nitrogen is great for stainless steel or aluminum. However, cutting thick pieces with nitrogen requires a massive amount of gas flow. You need a huge and steady supply. Compressed air might lower your daily bills on thinner sheets. Keep in mind that the color of the edge and the final cut quality will change depending on the gas. Always check the real gas costs right next to the laser wattage.
Focus, Nozzle, and Machine Condition Matter
Tiny mistakes in your setup will cause huge problems later. A dirty clear lens can ruin a cut. A busted nozzle will do the exact same thing. Even a tiny piece of dirt can mess up the laser beam. If the beam is not perfectly centered, you will have trouble. Wrong focus settings and jumpy gas pressure shrink your cutting range very fast. Bent or warped metal sheets also cause headaches. Thick plates push a ton of heat into the cut. Because of this heat, the cooling system must stay very strong and steady. None of these details are fun to talk about. Still, they explain a big mystery. They explain why two different machines with the exact same power can give you totally different cut parts.
How Should You Choose Fiber Laser Power?
Picking the right power should start by looking at your current jobs. Look at the work sitting on your floor right now. Do not buy a machine for a crazy thick job that might only come once a year. Imagine a shop that cuts 3 mm stainless steel all day long. They will have totally different needs than a shop cutting heavy 20 mm mild-steel plates. You must look past just the thickness capacity. How fast does it cut? How much does the gas cost? How much room does the machine take up? Can your building supply enough power? Can the table hold the heavy metal? Is there a good repair guy nearby? All these things matter just as much as the laser watts.
Use a Three-Step Buying Check
Set the daily range. Put your normal, everyday thickness right in the middle of the machine’s safe zone. Do not push it against the maximum advertised limit. Having a little bit of extra power gives you better speed. It gives you much cleaner edges. It also gives you breathing room when a batch of metal is bad.
Send real samples. Give the seller your exact metal alloy. Tell them the true thickness and show them your drawings. Point out the tiniest holes and tell them exactly how smooth the edge must be. After that, ask them for the total cut time. Ask what gas they used and what the pressure was. Demand clear photos of the top and bottom of the cut part. A short video of the cutting process is even better. A video can show if the laser takes too long to poke the first hole. It can show bad sparks or jerky movements that a pretty photo hides.
Check the complete machine. Look deeply at the bed size and table weight limits. Check the water chiller and how smoothly the motors move. Think about safety covers and worker training. Ask about spare parts. You are buying a whole sheet-cutting machine system, not just a laser box.
What Should You Check in a Fiber Laser Supplier?
A really good seller will connect their fiber laser cutting thickness chart to your actual parts. They will match it to your shop’s power and your future repair needs. Ask them who figures out the best cutting numbers for the machine. Ask how they will teach your workers. Check what extra parts they actually keep in their local building. Even more importantly, ask a tough question. Ask what happens if the machine breaks down and stops your work on a busy Friday afternoon. Always put your sample-cut rules into a written contract. One nice-looking photo does not prove anything. Doing a good cut over and over again is the only true test.
A Supplier Example
BEIJING WISECUT LTD sells many kinds of machines. They supply equipment for laser cutting, welding, cleaning, and bending. They also build metal-forming tools and full automated production-line setups. People buying machines can get sample tests and worker training. They also offer technical help and spare-parts support. This company has overseas dealers and local agents. Having local people can make talking much faster and easier. Before you order anything, always ask for a cut test. Make sure you agree on the thickness range and the gas plan. Check the table strength, cooling needs, and rules for putting the machine in your shop. Agree on how you will accept the final machine. You can send your metal details to them for a check on a specific model.
FAQ는
Q1: How Thick Can a Fiber Laser Cut?
It really depends on the power, the type of metal, the gas you use, and how nice you want the cut to look. A big 12kW machine might cut through 30 to 45 mm of mild steel. But remember, its safe, everyday limit is usually much lower.
Q2: How Thick Can a 1,500W Fiber Laser Cut?
A normal 1,500W machine can cut 10 to 14 mm mild steel. It can handle 4 to 6 mm stainless steel and 3 to 5 mm aluminum. The real results will change based on your metal type, gas, speed, and edge needs.
Q3: Can a 60W Fiber Laser Cut Metal?
It cannot cut normal metal sheets. A 60W fiber laser is mostly used just for drawing marks on metal. Sometimes, a very special setup might cut super thin metal foil, but that is rare.
Q4: What Can a 3kW Fiber Laser Cut?
Normal ranges for this power are 16 to 25 mm mild steel. It can do 8 to 12 mm stainless steel. For aluminum, expect 6 to 10 mm. It cuts 4 to 6 mm of brass or copper. Always try cutting your actual material before you pay.
Q5: Does Oxygen or Nitrogen Let a Fiber Laser Cut Thicker Metal?
Oxygen usually helps the laser cut thicker mild steel. This is because the fire-like reaction adds extra heat. Nitrogen gives you a much cleaner edge on stainless steel and aluminum. But remember, cutting thick pieces with nitrogen takes a lot more gas flow and very high pressure.


